July, 2000

	The ribs were on before July but they ended up in this section - oh well. I used 1" x 2" mahogany for the ribs. I had to brave Southern Lumber to get these pieces. For those that are not from the San Jose area, Southern Lumber has just about any wood you could possible want and in most sizes and shapes - and about 100,000 square feet of floor space - maybe more. Ho boy!
	I started using a new liquid fastener (PL - manufacturer unknown at this point) which is polyurethane based. It is much harder than Liquid Nails which tends to keep some plyability. PL hardens very well and is ideal for attaching the ribs and creating one solid structural unit.
	I also counter sunk 2 1/2" deck screws into each of the ribs and finished them off with a plug. Once all of the external work is done, I will finish the sides off with another several coats of varnish.
	Here is the start of roughing in the interior walls for the kitchen. I am being very anal in fitting these pieces, clamping them, and standing back and analyzing their placement. I was originally going to have the counter several inches higher, but moved it down after the dry fit. Better figure it out now before I apply the glue.
	The head liner has gone in after some fine tuning. I am using 1/8" mahogany ply. I decided against using glue to attach as there may come a day that it might need to come out (electrical problems, etc.). Instead, I used brass screws with finishing washers, four across, on each of the ribs. This photo is taken before the 3 coats of gloss varnish have been applied.
	Another shot of the head liner with the two type of interior lights I will be installing.
	Another rough in shot of the beginning of the interior cabinet.
	Attached the tongue jack. I purchased this at West Marine and it swivels up and out of the way. It can handle 1,000 pounds with a simple turn of the handle - it is very smooth and easy to operate.
	Attaching side supports for the kitchen counter. I am using standard wood glue and counter sunk deck screws for all joints and side wall contact areas. Wood is 1" x 2" poplar.
	Completion of the support structure.
	Addition of lower wall. This will also be used to help strengthen the counter. I used the PL liquid fastener here as there were some larger gaps that needed filling and the wood glue would not do the job. The wall is 3/4" birch ply.
	Closer look at the joints.
	Attaching the counter top. Here I used the PL fastener as well.
	Counter top with back wall clamped in place. I have also routed the bottom support for the kitchen shelf.
	Starting to run wire. All wires will run back to a junction block that will be in the upper right area of the kitchen. All wires are a hefty 12 or 14 guage (I don't recall which) which should be plenty for the paltry 12 volts running through them. Each appliance will have it's own set of wires running to the junction block. I want to keep the splicing and connections to the absolute minimum.
	Interior view of the wire. There will be a single adjustable halogen spot at each point.
	Attaching wire to the ribs.
	Wiring entering interior space.
	Wiring in the interior space. I will be insulating the interior so I am not concerned with the exposed wires (they will have another layer of 1/8" mahogany ply covering them up. All wires will run straight back to the kitchen through the back wall.